Week 97: Zion National Park, Utah
Living in a van...down by the river!
Hello, hello, and welcome back to another update! We spent the week in Zion National Park, Utah — and what a week it was! Catch up on our first few days here in our last post.
Note: We don’t recommend coming here in April — it’s been craaaaazy crowded in the Zion Canyon area of the park since so many schools are on spring break right now. We knew going in that it would be busy — but we didn’t realize it would be quite this bad.
The shuttle buses have been super full with long wait times, and the trails have been packed too. For those who have never been to the park before, Zion Canyon is the main part of the park and it’s closed to personal vehicular traffic from March to September.
We were glad that we were staying in the Watchman Campground since the parking lot at the Visitor Center to catch the shuttle has been filling before the first shuttle leaves at 7 am. Lesson learned!
We made the most of it and went on some fun hikes, though!
Zion Human History Museum
Monday we walked from where we’re staying in Watchman Campground along the Pa’rus Trail to the Zion Human History Museum.
We watched the park film in the theatre, and the part that really resonated with me is right in the beginning when Angelita Bulletts, a Kaibab Paiute Tribal Member, says:
Zion belongs to everyone…Zion has many gifts to give…but there’s also a need for balance, and we have to be able to give back. It’s important that people take the time to connect to this land. And to connect in a personal way.
I did some research, and Agelita was the Bureau of Land Management's first Native American district manager. You can read more about her here.
After checking out the displays and reading about early Native American and Mormon land use, we had a snack on the back patio of the museum and soaked in the views:
From the front of the museum we spied the Natural Bridge — see if you can spot it too — look in the center of the photo:
Then we walked back to the Visitor Center, waited in line for the shuttle, and rode it all the way to the last stop. We walked around a bit and then hopped back on the shuttle and headed to…
Weeping Rock
We felt pretty lucky that the Weeping Rock Trail had reopened in September 2025, as it had been closed for almost 2 years due to a rockfall. (Note: destinations previously accessible from the Weeping Rock Trail, including Hidden Canyon and the East Rim Trail to Observation Point, remain closed.)
A short but steep hike lead to the weeping rock — and a crowd of people, including a big group having a picnic up top and taking up half of the viewing area! (Rude!) So I didn’t get many good pictures of the rock itself, but I did get pictures of some cool plants.
First up, a new-to-us shooting star: dark-throated shooting star or Primula pauciflora:
Shooting stars are in the same family as cyclamens that you get get at the grocery store — so cool, right?
And then! We started seeing bigtooth maples everywhere! Bigtooth maples are a pretty special plant to me as there are relic populations of them hidden in the canyons at Big Bend National Park and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks — our “home” parks.
Then it was on to the…
Emerald Pools
We heard from several friends that we should check out the Emerald Pools — and they were right! We did the Lower and Middle sections.
We hiked there from Kayenta Trail and were lucky enough to see 3 deer crossing the Virgin River:
I was feeling overwhelmed by all the people there and didn’t take many photos — but J did. These next two photos are by him — thanks, J!
Here’s a closeup of one of the pools — we think the water level was lower than usual this year:
After the pools we walked through the famous Zion Lodge and restaurants just to check them out.
Then we waited in the long line to catch the shuttle bus back to the campground — it was super packed! It reminded us of the buses in Kyoto, Japan!
River Day in Camp
The Virgin River — the same river that forms The Narrows at Zion — runs right along the Watchman Campground where we were staying and one of our campsites had river access! So we took our camp chairs down and spent the day relaxing and staying cool since it was in the upper 80s.
We hiked around for a bit in it too and had our own river experience — without the crowds. The water was super cold!
We also made a new cute pocket gopher friend:
What an awesome camp day!
Perpetual Journal
Speaking of camp days, I also took some time in camp to sketch a nibbled cottonwood leaf in my perpetual journal:
Check out a video here on Instagram for more:
This is my third year sketching in this journal (and my fifth year keeping one) and it’s been so fun seeing all the places it’s been already — I can’t wait to see all the places it will go. I’m forever grateful to Lara Call Gastinger for this practice.
Find out more about my setup here on the Art Toolkit blog.
PS. I’m an Art Toolkit Ambassador and they’ve given me a code to share with you: Use code LISAFAN10 for 10% off your purchase of an ArtToolkit, palette, or mixing pans.
When you make a purchase using the code I’ll receive a small commission at no charge to you. I truly appreciate your support.
Artemis II Splashdown
We also watched Artemis II splashdown live online from camp — I was on pins and needles!
The mission has been a bright spot these days and it was incredible to think of everyone watching together all across the country and around the world. Did you watch too?
Kolob Canyons District
Monday we headed out to the Kolob Canyons District of Zion National Park and I’m so glad we did! It was so much less crowded here — and the scenery was incredible.
Timber Creek Overlook Trail
After stopping at the Visitor Center to stamp my sketchbook we drove the scenic loop, stopping to hike the 1.2 mile Timber Creek Overlook Trail.
From the park website:
Once you reach the overlook, you will be rewarded with views of Shuntavi Butte, Timber Creek, Kolob Terrace, and the Pine Valley Mountains. Looking south on the far horizon, visitors may see Mount Trumbull, 100 miles away at the north rim of the Grand Canyon.
It was sprinkling rain as we started the hike — then it cleared up for a while — and on the way back we had pea-size hail! Luckily the sun popped out when we were at the overlook — what a view!
We also found a new-to-us species of deathcamas on the trail!
Botany friends, this is Foothill Deathcamas (Toxicoscordion paniculatum).
We also spotted a new-to-us twistflower! Feast your eyes on Heartleaf Twistflower (Streptanthus cordatus):
So cool!
Taylor Creek Trail
Next we hiked the 5.5 mile Taylor Creek Trail. There was a sign at the trailhead that mentioned that the trail crossed the creek 40 times — we thought that meant we’d have 20 creek crossings out and 20 on the way back — but no! It was 40 crossings each way, ha!
The water in the creek was so clear — and cold! I was glad to have my hiking poles with me — it made crossing the creek so much easier:
Here’s a bit about the hike from the park website:
The Taylor Creek Trail leads hikers deep into a narrow box canyon toward the Double Arch Alcove, where erosion has carved out natural openings in the Navajo sandstone. As the trail reaches the mouth of the canyon it enters the Zion Wilderness and begins to crisscross Taylor Creek. Winter conditions can be very icy and water crossings in the spring will get your feet wet. The trail passes the geologic formation of the Kanarraville Fold and two historic homestead cabins built in the early 1930s before arriving at the Double Arch Alcove.
We saw both of the cabins and wondered what it must have been like living there. It was so quiet and peaceful.
Then we made it to the Double Arch Alcove at last — and it was worth the hike!
I couldn’t get over the colors! Just so amazing!
Then we had to double-time it on the way back since it looked like it would rain any minute…
The skies opened up when we were about a half hour from the van and we got totally soaked — and it was a cold rain, too!
But still worth it!
That’s a Wrap
Annnnnd that’s it for Week 97 and Zion National Park.
I’m writing this from Bryce Canyon National Park and can’t wait to share our adventures here so far — stay tuned!
As always, we’re so happy to have you along for the ride! — Lisa, Jason, and Henry-the-Van
I can't get over how RED everything is, from stones to earth. Magnificent.
Zion is such a beautiful place. We hike the Angels Landing trail and navigated the chains in 2019. It’s an incredible hike, but not for anyone who has an issue with heights or precarious routes. You need a permit now, and the lottery is something. Enjoy your stay!